Why not venture just beyond the city centre into Borgerhout, Zurenborg or Antwerp-North? These neighbourhoods often harbour century-old architectural gems and have a more relaxed, Mediterranean air. Ask around for the Kerkstraat, where you'll find, among other places, "˜t Fonteintje. Despite its Flemish name, "˜t Fonteintje mainly serves Moroccan food (tajines, couscous, various meats and salads), but chips and burgers are also available if that's what suits your fancy. While the place is not especially charming in looks, the food is good, prices are democratic and service is always friendly. Locals prefer to pick a seat on the large terrace overlooking the square, but on colder days the inside is just as agreeable. And do take the opportunity to experience this part of the city, a potpourri of black and white, young and old, rich and poor living side by side.